Monday, May 4, 2009

May....The 'Bitter' Month

Apparently in Kazakh, the month of May means 'bitter', and therefore most people in this country refuse to get married during the entire month. Instead, they try to squeeze most of their weddings into April so they won't have to wait until June. I was really lucky to get invited to two weddings this past month. How did I manage to get myself invited to two weddings already when I've only lived and known the people in my village for such a short time? I'm just a really likable person I suppose...
It really started when my friend Emily and I went to have a traditional banya/ ghosting day at the house of one of the teachers from my school. It wasn't long after we were cleaned and stuffing our faces with sheep and noodles that we figured out the dynamics of this family of 15+! adults and kids living in one household. The leader of the clan, this amazingly charming, rosy cheeked, round Kazakh father.
(It's hard not to smirk when I think of the guy, he's GREAT!) Mr. giant family insists that Emily and I share in their celebrations with one of his sons who will be married in the fall. Although Em and I would have happily begged or (snuck in) to be included in this wedding, we just nodded and said YES, you should invite us!
Well, the fall wedding got pushed up about 9 months...figure that one out. And we were included after all.
The wedding started with a ceremony at the mosque in my village. I've never been to a mosque service before, and was grateful to have a few of my students there to explain the ceremony to me. After the wedding prayer is recited, the bride and groom are asked three times by the mullah if they go willingly into the marriage or not, and three times they drink water from a cup. The cup is then passed around for the family to drink. The ceremony ends after everyone throws candy at the wedding party. Then the bride and groom go outside to release two white doves. (It was about two seconds after the dove pooped on the brides dress that all the crazy Kazakhs rushed to assure all that this is good luck, along with the rain on the wedding day)
Like Americans, the family keeps a wedding video of the entire day, and before leaving the mosque we were asked to make our first toast of the day. Jeff, who I told could only come to the mosque and then had to go away, was not actually invited to the wedding. But after his toast on camera, he was pretty much becoming part of the family (no such thing as a crasher in this country). We rode off in the precession of decorated cars who go through the village honking non-stop. We were taken to the family's house for chai and to get 'beautified'. Emily and I got talked into having our hair done. It turned out well for me, I got a nice up-do, not too over the top. But by the time they got to Emily, the stylist decided to be a little more 'creative'. She created something that was half bee-hive, half ringlets.
We made it to the reception that evening just in time, looking fabulous. The bride and groom enter the party with relatives holding a shawl in front of their faces, and when the dombre player calls your name, you must put money on a plate if you want to see them. After everyone is called, the shawl is removed very carefully using the neck of the dombra instrument, and the celebration begins. They get really into decorating the head table for the bribe and groom, and at this wedding, someone ordered personalized red-heart shaped balloons with their names. How sweet.
The reception isn't so different from an American wedding party, unless you count the horse, sheep, and various other types of meat to consume. There was a good amount of toasting, feasting, dancing, and various competitions throughout the evening. I was pleased with my combined Kazakh/ Russian toast, which I like to believe got a louder round of applause than the Russian scholar's... but who knows how much wine I'd drank by that point.
After making it through the first wedding with my American friends by my side, I figured I was prepared to give it a go on my own. This past weekend was the wedding of a cousin of my counterpart. It was a much smaller, less rowdy affair, but most of the same idea. (I did eat dove meat at this wedding, that was an experience)
If I haven't illustrated the hospitable nature of the Kazakh people yet, I hope this story hits the point home. I was really enjoying the wedding party this weekend, and was busy grooving on the dance floor when a couple I hadn't spoken to yet asked if they could take a photo with me. They were the aunt and uncle of the bride, and of course I said yes. Later that evening, I ran into them again and they handed me a white envelope. Inside, they had printed out the photo for me. On the back they wrote their names, phone numbers, address, and a note inviting me to come ghosting at their house in Pavlodar anytime. I was really moved by the gesture, and hope to call them soon.

In other exciting news, I ran in a Kazakhstan road race in Pavlodar this weekend. I almost got rejected for not being a citizen, but the physical education teacher at my school fought pretty hard for me. The competition was stiff, mostly women running in jeans and sweaters. But there were a couple of serious, sponsored athletes. I managed to come in 4th, and next year I'm going to have to train harder and make my school proud.

So we move onto May, the bitter month. The only thing I have to be bitter about at the moment is the fact that after 9 months of required living with host families, most of my friends will be moving out on their own this week. I'm looking for a place of my own as well, but my village doesn't have any apartments-only houses, so unless something comes up for rent, I'll be staying put. On the bright side, it's almost time for summer, which means camps, vacation, and travel.

Thursday, January 8, 2009

FROZE TO THE BONE IN MY IGLOO HOME...COUNTING THE DAYS TIL THE ICE TURNS GREEN.

I can't say I've been too busy with my 'o so important' job this past month (we've had a holiday break from school for the past two weeks). On the other hand, I've definitely been busy with this thing called 'adjustment' to my new site. So not everything has been great, and not everything has been terrible...let's just say I've begun to accept this village as my home for the next few years. The positive side of spending the holidays away from home was the chance to get to know my new friends a lot better... i.e. the chance for us new volunteers to test out our vodka shot count capabilities together (go figure, mine is not so high). I spent New Years in Zhelesinka, the village where volunteers Jeff (the Russian scholar from Seattle) and Megan (my fellow NYU buddy) live, about three hours north of Pavlodar. Highlights included getting beaten up by a two-year old, my first co-ed banya, dodging invitations from crazies taking shots in cars, champagne toasts in a magazine, the masquerade where we were the only ones wearing masks, and star gazing in -25 degree weather.

It was a great trip, but coming back was even better because I have a now have a new and much improved host family. They have had a few volunteers live with them in the past-so they know how to keep me happy and are used to American-isms. I have a host dad, a host mom (who just left to jet-set in Russian for two months) and Anya and Pasha--two crazy newlyweds who fight all the time but take good care of me, and buy me all the vegetarian food I want. Tuesday night, Anya even ventured to the disco with us, and didn't get too annoyed with me when I made new 'friends' at a restaurant who wanted to take shots with the Americans and invite us to their 'zona relaxation' outside of the city-- although her and Pasha continue to tease me about it every day since.

My counterpart and I are still dealing with our constant love/hate relationship, but she did tell me a Kazakh saying that I think is worth sharing. 'You are in charge of letting your spirit feel free'. We took this heart the other day when we went on a bumpy, icy, horse-drawn sleigh ride with friends through Pavlodarskoye-laughing and waving at all our students we saw on the way, who of course looked at us like we were crazy. I was freezing, but for once I didn't care.

Lessons start up again tomorrow, and this term I'll be adding my own 2nd grade class to my schedule. I'll also be teaching a community English class for adults, and continue to condition my girls soccer team for spring. With all this to look forward to...I'll try to make myself stop counting down the days til spring.

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

SNEG!!

So, here I am. No longer a trainee.. but a volunteer. Ooo. Our Swear-In Ceremony was Friday, held at a University in Almaty. It wasn’t that eventful, but there is a new U.S. Ambassador to Kazakhstan, so it was interesting to hear him speak. After taking our oath, it was time for our goodbyes  But not before the feast. This was the best part of the day by far, as the Peace Corps organized a bunch of tables set up as buffets. So funny note, us Americans take our plates of food and go stand in the back of the room. Kazakhs, on the other hand, have a different idea of how this buffet system works. After elbowing their way in, they stake out a spot and don’t move until they have tasted everything in their arms reach. And, they don’t stop after that. Let’s not forget the most important part, the magic plastic bags they all have in their purses to take a doggy bag or two home.
So, then it really was time to say goodbye. Our train left Friday night, and by the time we arrived on Sunday morning, we’d been seeing more and more snow out the window since we passed Karaganda.
At 6am on Sunday, it was dark and freezing. We still got a really warm welcome to Pavlodar, however, with all our counterparts waiting for us with big smiles on their face. The director of my school even came to pick me up! (Her husband, who had to carry all of my luggage, I don’t think was so happy.) After napping at Sandy’s (my amazing, adorable counterpart) house, it was time to move in with my new host family.
So far, everything is great at their house. It’s huge, first of all. I’m sure it’s one of the biggest houses in the village. I’m not going to complain about that. I have internet, indoor plumbing (yes, showers!), and my host parents even put my own water cooler/refrigerator in my room. (I’m going to be so spoiled-so Jennifer Speyer-ha!)
My host mom, Gaziza, is a zavuch at our school. My dad is Valdamir, he’s Chinese with a Russian name. I’m going to try to figure out his background soon. I also have a 16-year-old sister, Era, who is in her first year of college in Pavlodar. Plus, my 90 year-old-babushka, who is adorable. They have two other daughters, one who moved to Germany last week (??) and another who is married and lives in Astana. Gulnara, who is in Germany, was the only one who spoke English… so I’m left here with my (intermediate low, yes!) Russian. Our favorite game is to say words in Kazakh, Russian, English, and Chinese. (Ris, Ris, Rice, Mi-fan!) How international.
The mom and babushka make me delicious Chinese food. Hello, flavor! They do try to stuff me like a turkey at every meal. :( Still, it only took them about a day to figure out my strange eating habits. Sandy had to interfere and explain, gently, that I like to do this weird thing called being healthy. Everyone had a good laugh when I was told to put butter on my bread (ugh, I hate butter.) I took a tiny sliver and spread it out. Valdamir goes, here; let me show you how to butter your bread. Imagine, if you will, two big hunks of cheese sitting on top of a small piece of bread. That’s how much butter he tried to feed me before eating it himself. He goes, oh, I know! Maybe they don’t have butter in America. In China, there’s no butter or cheese. Jane, do they have butter in America? Yes, Americans love butter. (Ryan, are you grossed out yet?)
They are learning, though. This morning instead of pushing oily potatoes onto my plate, they just let me eat my peanut butter toast in peace. Mom, you’ll be happy to know that they’ve even started using my garlic salt and lemon pepper.
We got more snow this morning. I forgot how challenging it is to run on snow. A friend told me once that it was good for your abs, so I’ll try and suck it up. I’m supposed to be joining a gym this weekend so I won’t have to freeze outside. Oh yes, and the second semester of school starts tomorrow. I’m excited to see my students and start coaching my own soccer/xc ski teams!
Today, I’m going to buy my first fur coat! I’ll need it.. Miss everyone! More updates soon.
SNEG!!

So, here I am. No longer a trainee.. but a volunteer. Ooo. Our Swear-In Ceremony was Friday, held at a University in Almaty. It wasn’t that eventful, but there is a new U.S. Ambassador to Kazakhstan, so it was interesting to hear him speak. After taking our oath, it was time for our goodbyes  But not before the feast. This was the best part of the day by far, as the Peace Corps organized a bunch of tables set up as buffets. So funny note, us Americans take our plates of food and go stand in the back of the room. Kazakhs, on the other hand, have a different idea of how this buffet system works. After elbowing their way in, they stake out a spot and don’t move until they have tasted everything in their arms reach. And, they don’t stop after that. Let’s not forget the most important part, the magic plastic bags they all have in their purses to take a doggy bag or two home.
So, then it really was time to say goodbye. Our train left Friday night, and by the time we arrived on Sunday morning, we’d been seeing more and more snow out the window since we passed Karaganda.
At 6am on Sunday, it was dark and freezing. We still got a really warm welcome to Pavlodar, however, with all our counterparts waiting for us with big smiles on their face. The director of my school even came to pick me up! (Her husband, who had to carry all of my luggage, I don’t think was so happy.) After napping at Sandy’s (my amazing, adorable counterpart) house, it was time to move in with my new host family.
So far, everything is great at their house. It’s huge, first of all. I’m sure it’s one of the biggest houses in the village. I’m not going to complain about that. I have internet, indoor plumbing (yes, showers!), and my host parents even put my own water cooler/refrigerator in my room. (I’m going to be so spoiled-so Jennifer Speyer-ha!)
My host mom, Gaziza, is a zavuch at our school. My dad is Valdamir, he’s Chinese with a Russian name. I’m going to try to figure out his background soon. I also have a 16-year-old sister, Era, who is in her first year of college in Pavlodar. Plus, my 90 year-old-babushka, who is adorable. They have two other daughters, one who moved to Germany last week (??) and another who is married and lives in Astana. Gulnara, who is in Germany, was the only one who spoke English… so I’m left here with my (intermediate low, yes!) Russian. Our favorite game is to say words in Kazakh, Russian, English, and Chinese. (Ris, Ris, Rice, Mi-fan!) How international.
The mom and babushka make me delicious Chinese food. Hello, flavor! They do try to stuff me like a turkey at every meal. :( Still, it only took them about a day to figure out my strange eating habits. Sandy had to interfere and explain, gently, that I like to do this weird thing called being healthy. Everyone had a good laugh when I was told to put butter on my bread (ugh, I hate butter.) I took a tiny sliver and spread it out. Valdamir goes, here; let me show you how to butter your bread. Imagine, if you will, two big hunks of cheese sitting on top of a small piece of bread. That’s how much butter he tried to feed me before eating it himself. He goes, oh, I know! Maybe they don’t have butter in America. In China, there’s no butter or cheese. Jane, do they have butter in America? Yes, Americans love butter. (Ryan, are you grossed out yet?)
They are learning, though. This morning instead of pushing oily potatoes onto my plate, they just let me eat my peanut butter toast in peace. Mom, you’ll be happy to know that they’ve even started using my garlic salt and lemon pepper.
We got more snow this morning. I forgot how challenging it is to run on snow. A friend told me once that it was good for your abs, so I’ll try and suck it up. I’m supposed to be joining a gym this weekend so I won’t have to freeze outside. Oh yes, and the second semester of school starts tomorrow. I’m excited to see my students and start coaching my own soccer/xc ski teams!
Today, I’m going to buy my first fur coat! I’ll need it.. Miss everyone! More updates soon.
SNEG!!

So, here I am. No longer a trainee.. but a volunteer. Ooo. Our Swear-In Ceremony was Friday, held at a University in Almaty. It wasn’t that eventful, but there is a new U.S. Ambassador to Kazakhstan, so it was interesting to hear him speak. After taking our oath, it was time for our goodbyes  But not before the feast. This was the best part of the day by far, as the Peace Corps organized a bunch of tables set up as buffets. So funny note, us Americans take our plates of food and go stand in the back of the room. Kazakhs, on the other hand, have a different idea of how this buffet system works. After elbowing their way in, they stake out a spot and don’t move until they have tasted everything in their arms reach. And, they don’t stop after that. Let’s not forget the most important part, the magic plastic bags they all have in their purses to take a doggy bag or two home.
So, then it really was time to say goodbye. Our train left Friday night, and by the time we arrived on Sunday morning, we’d been seeing more and more snow out the window since we passed Karaganda.
At 6am on Sunday, it was dark and freezing. We still got a really warm welcome to Pavlodar, however, with all our counterparts waiting for us with big smiles on their face. The director of my school even came to pick me up! (Her husband, who had to carry all of my luggage, I don’t think was so happy.) After napping at Sandy’s (my amazing, adorable counterpart) house, it was time to move in with my new host family.
So far, everything is great at their house. It’s huge, first of all. I’m sure it’s one of the biggest houses in the village. I’m not going to complain about that. I have internet, indoor plumbing (yes, showers!), and my host parents even put my own water cooler/refrigerator in my room. (I’m going to be so spoiled-so Jennifer Speyer-ha!)
My host mom, Gaziza, is a zavuch at our school. My dad is Valdamir, he’s Chinese with a Russian name. I’m going to try to figure out his background soon. I also have a 16-year-old sister, Era, who is in her first year of college in Pavlodar. Plus, my 90 year-old-babushka, who is adorable. They have two other daughters, one who moved to Germany last week (??) and another who is married and lives in Astana. Gulnara, who is in Germany, was the only one who spoke English… so I’m left here with my (intermediate low, yes!) Russian. Our favorite game is to say words in Kazakh, Russian, English, and Chinese. (Ris, Ris, Rice, Mi-fan!) How international.
The mom and babushka make me delicious Chinese food. Hello, flavor! They do try to stuff me like a turkey at every meal. :( Still, it only took them about a day to figure out my strange eating habits. Sandy had to interfere and explain, gently, that I like to do this weird thing called being healthy. Everyone had a good laugh when I was told to put butter on my bread (ugh, I hate butter.) I took a tiny sliver and spread it out. Valdamir goes, here; let me show you how to butter your bread. Imagine, if you will, two big hunks of cheese sitting on top of a small piece of bread. That’s how much butter he tried to feed me before eating it himself. He goes, oh, I know! Maybe they don’t have butter in America. In China, there’s no butter or cheese. Jane, do they have butter in America? Yes, Americans love butter. (Ryan, are you grossed out yet?)
They are learning, though. This morning instead of pushing oily potatoes onto my plate, they just let me eat my peanut butter toast in peace. Mom, you’ll be happy to know that they’ve even started using my garlic salt and lemon pepper.
We got more snow this morning. I forgot how challenging it is to run on snow. A friend told me once that it was good for your abs, so I’ll try and suck it up. I’m supposed to be joining a gym this weekend so I won’t have to freeze outside. Oh yes, and the second semester of school starts tomorrow. I’m excited to see my students and start coaching my own soccer/xc ski teams!
Today, I’m going to buy my first fur coat! I’ll need it.. Miss everyone! More updates soon.

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Just wanted to write and keep everyone updated! It's been awhile. I now know where I'm going to be living for the next two years! Drum roll..
It's a village of 5,500 people outside of the city of Pavlodar in the north east of Kazakhstan. which means...cold! I will be the first Peace Corps volunteer in this village. I'm pretty pumped and honored about that. Basically, it means that I did a good job in our Practicum and the pc trusts me to do a decent job of developing the site for future volunteers. I'll also be the first American most of the people there meet.. plenty of pressure all around. THere are a bunch of PCVs in the city..about 20 minutes away, so I will be getting to know them and we'll spend a lot of time together. Tomorrow.. we go to a conference in Almaty and meet our counterparts (who I will teach with in my village). Friday at midnight.. we will get on the train for Pavlodar. It arrives Sunday morning at 7am, so about 30 hours total.
Next week I'll be busy meeting new host families, teaching a few classes, and introducing myself. Yes, in Russian. Shall be a good time.

I'll let everyone know how it goes. You can read about Pavlodar here... aboutkazakhstan.com/ Pavlodar_oblast.shtml б

Saturday, September 20, 2008

What's new...

I haven't updated in a few weeks...everything is starting to settle down as we get into our routines of teaching, Russian classes, Peace corps meetings, and clubs. I guess I have a few interesting stories to report, but for the most part everything is going smoothly. I'm teaching 5th grade and 8th grade for the next month of training. The kids are great, very enthusiastic and are making my job pretty enjoyable. The 5th graders just started learning english so we're working on basics like numbers, addresses, phone numbers, age, etc. The 8th grade is a bit more advanced, last week we learned about personality traits and how to describe your friends. My favorite part is that they use British textbooks so everything is super proper and there is a ton about London and England in there. (We love teaching expressions like "sit up late".) I'm really excited about my visual aide making (we all know how much I love pictures and cutting up magazines!) so that's a lot of fun having "projects" every night. I mean, work...right. ANyway, my friend Jenny and I are also working on a 3rd grade english club a few days a week. It's adorable...this week we taught them the Peguin song and played a game about Rainbows. They love it. Brendan and I had round two of sports club (or football club) today...more kids than last week and a great time by all.
The best story I have is that I fainted into my friends arms at the bazzar last weekend. Yes, I'm really stupid some days. Brendan, Jenny and I were left in Almalybak last weekend after sports club when the other volunteers were enjoying a concert in Almaty. Poor us. We felt so sorry for ourselves that the vodka drinking started early. The night ended well, but the next day I felt like crap. I guess the dehydrated and 85 degree weather didn't help. Anyway, as I said before my host families house is a mad scene on the weekends, last saturday I think we had about 25 people sleeping all over the place. I had to get away from the screaming babies, so I asked Jenny if I could come along to the bazzar. Her host brother got married today and she got to see a Russian wedding! I'm jealous. But anyway, we were picking out the dress amongst the craziness, and I started to feel really dizzy. The bazzar is hard to describe, but it's basically a giant maze of stalls and so many people you just get pushed along. I ended up fainting and Jenny had to carry me along before some lady gave me water. I don't remember any of this. Exciting stuff...I actually was fairly sick the rest of the week but hey, it made for a good story. I think Jenny and I are now bonded for the next few years since she did , sort of , save my life --so she says. Anyway, she's now off taking vodka shots in her beautiful dress that luckily she bought right before the so called incident.
It's freezing this weekend...winter is coming! Wish me luck..and
In two weeks, October 4th..I'll find out where I'm getting posted for my site. I'm getting excited! Until then...das vidanya. Missing you all !